I know you want the best for your pet. Maybe you already know this and have tried to get your pet to lose weight. It's hard! (Especially for cats!) Here are some vet-approved tips to help you out.

• I know the biggest challenge to exercising your dog is probably you trying to find the time. Try walking your dog for 5 minutes a couple times a week. If your dog isn't used to walking for a long period of time, you'll want to start small anyway.
• For cats, try getting exercise in by playing with the laser pointer, feather, or something else that attracts their interest to hunt and chase. They even make automatic laser pointers with a timer.
• To lose weight you also need to limit calories. Make sure you are feeding the appropriate amount each day. Most pet food has a chart dictating how much a pet should be fed based on weight. 
• If you free feed, it might be better to limit access to the food by feeding the appropriate amount twice daily.
• Sad to say, but unfortunately you'll have to cut back on treats and table scraps. This doesn't mean you can't give them, but be mindful of how much you are giving.  Some treats also indicate how much you should give based on your pet's size, too.
• You can also substitute treats with healthier alternatives. Make sure you wash and cook them appropriately, if needed. In the summertime, freezing slices of these fruit can offer a cool treat!
  • apples
  • bananas
  • pears
  • oranges
  • blueberries
  • raspberries
  • strawberries
  • cantaloupe
  • watermelon
  • pumpkin (also good to help constipation)
  • lettuce (I know a few cats that really like it, surprisingly!)
  • spinach
  • kale
  • broccoli
  • carrots (make sure they're not swallowed whole!)
  • green beans (a big hit!)
  • peas (another big hit!)
  • sweet potato
  • squash 
• Speaking of food, here's what NOT to give. They are OFF LIMITS due to toxicity.
  • grapes
  • raisins
  • figs
  • avocado (the pit is the biggest concern)
  • onions
  • scallions
  • shallots
  • garlic
• Weight loss food for pets is also available. Some "regular" food you can buy normally, others that are a Prescription Diet and require a prescription from a veterinarian. 

You can visit PetObesityPrevention.org for more resources, such as how to check your pet's body conditioning score, your pet's caloric need, weight translator, and more tips on how to help your pet lose weight.

When it comes to pet insurance there’s A LOT to talk about, so I definitely see this being a multi-post topic. Not only is there a lot to learn about insurance in general (can you even easily explain any of your insurance policies?), but there are also many pet insurance companies, and within each company, many different options to choose from. But that’s a good thing! It’s proof that pet insurance is in high demand and with so many options to choose from, pet parents are sure to find a plan that suits them and their pet. I’d like to start by explaining a little bit about pet insurance and its associated jargon, how you can search and compare policies, and what I have learned from a handful of pet insurance companies.
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Full disclosure, I’m interested in getting insurance for my two dogs. You might think, “But why? Your mom is a vet, Caitie.” Of course, my mom is a GREAT vet, but there are some things she simply can’t do. What if, God forbid, one of my dogs may need a CT or MRI scan one day? Can’t find those at your general practitioner. What if Charlotte, my border collie mix that LOVES monitoring the yard, develops cataracts? You better believe I would definitely get cataract surgery for her; but a board-certified ophthalmologist would need to do the surgery (Animal Eye Care) so she can see clearly again.  I’ve seen almost everything, so believe me when I say I can understand the difficult situations I’ve seen many pet parents in. The goal with pet insurance is to help ease this burden- so when it comes time to deciding what’s best for your pet, you can focus on getting the best care, and not so much the final bill. ​

I​​ spoke for over an hour each with both ASPCA Pet Insurance and Embrace (and briefly with Trupanion). Let's start with basic terminology and what it means for you. Pet insurance has become so customizable that it's important you understand the following if you're interested in pet insurance for your pets. 

ANNUAL DEDUCTIBLE - I was told by the ASPCA Pet Insurance rep that this is the most important thing a pet parent should look at when comparing pet insurances. Select the option that will give you the most money back. An annual deductible is the amount you pay for covered healthcare services before the insurance plan starts to pay. Make sure to choose a company that wants you to meet the deductible only once per YEAR. Some insurance companies want you to meet a deductible once per "EVENT" (You are not getting the most back this way). Examples of some deductibles are $500, $250, or $100 per year. A popular option is $250 per year. 
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REIMBURSEMENT OPTIONS - Reimbursement is the amount of the bill the policy will cover (once the deductible is met). Some examples are 70%, 80%, and 90% of the bill. 90% is the popular option. You can receive reimbursement via check or direct deposit. A very helpful new option that has surfaced is the ability for the pet insurance company to reimburse the veterinary hospital directly in the event of unforeseen circumstances!

ANNUAL LIMIT - This is the maximum amount the policy will cover each year.  Some options are $5,000; $10,000; $15,000; $20,000; and Unlimited. Some companies won't let you increase your annual limit option (but will allow a decrease), so be sure to choose carefully. If you have been coming to CCVH for a while I can look how much you've spent with us to help you get an idea of what option may be best for you.

PRE-EXISTING CONDITION - An illness or injury that occurred prior to the policy starting. Unfortunately, there is not a pet insurance that will cover pre-existing conditions. But from my talks with ASPCA and Embrace, I have found them to be very fair in judging pre-existing conditions. ASPCA will deem it NOT a pre-existing condition if your pet has been symptom-free for 180 days. For example, say your pet had a urinary tract infection (UTI) before you got a policy. It was successfully treated and cleared up, but your pet developed another UTI over 180 days later. Your policy will still cover it.  For Embrace, they only look at the past year of medical history to determine what constitutes as a pre-existing condition. (I'm sure there are other companies that treat pre-existing conditions fairly, but these are the two examples I know at the moment). This is why getting a policy sooner is better, before there are pre-existing conditions to consider.  Maybe you're thinking "but my pet is older and already has an issue that can't be covered." If this is the case, I would still recommend an accident only policy...

ACCIDENT ONLY POLICY - Some companies offer "accident only policies." This won't cover preventative care (vaccines,  routine bloodwork, spay/neuter, etc), but does cover events such as bites, lacerations, foreign body ingestion, toxic ingestion, and broken bones. Pet insurance companies have different lists of what is considered an "accident" in their accident-only policies. So if you're considering this type of plan, be sure to compare these lists.

NAPHIA - The North American Pet Health Insurance Association - The association comprised of reputable health insurance companies and pet health professions, committed to advancing and growing the pet insurance industry.  A great resource for more information. 

I also suggest visiting PetInsuranceQuotes.com for more terms and definitions explanations and to get a pet insurance quote.

PetInsuranceReview.com is another great resource to compare insurers' basic info (without needing to provide any of your information), get a quote, and read reviews. 

I'd like to make future pet insurance-related blog posts that go into more details about policies and the different pet insurance companies. 

We still have 2 more weeks of our Spay/Neuter Special.
We also have a $25 off coupon on the home page. Be sure to mention/show it at check out!
February is National Dental Health Month! In an upcoming blog post I will introduce our February specials, which will be sure to include a discount on dental cleanings!

It finally feels like winter - stay warm, my friends!

I meant to write about pet insurance before now, but I need to tell you about our January special before January is over! This month is flying by. Happy New Year by the way!
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Did you know North Carolina ranks number 1 in pet euthanasias? Not something we want to be #1 in. This article explores the relation between euthanasia rate and US geography. In NC, a healthy dog in an animal shelter is nearly 25 times more likely to be euthanized than a dog in New Hampshire (see previous link: "The Puzzling Geography of Animal Shelter Dog Euthanasia"). This is one of the reasons that it is so important to spay and neuter our pets. 

The reduction of "unwanted" pets that ultimately are euthanized is one reason to spay and neuter; Another reason is for your pet's health.  Spaying helps prevent uterine infections, breast cancer, and pyometra (infection of the uterus). Spaying your pet before her first heat offers the best chance of protection from these diseases.
Neutering prevents testicular cancer and some prostate problems. It also reduces marking behavior and the desire to wander to mate.
We recommend spaying and neutering around 6 months old. This gives them enough time to grow healthy and enjoy puppy- or kitten-hood, but before they get old enough to get into heat (females) or begin marking as a behavior rather than hormonal instinct (males).
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So you can see, there are many benefits to having your pet spayed or neutered! We know times are tough, especially after the holidays, so to offer our best to our community pets and pet parents we're doing 30% off spays and neuters. Below please find a chart of the REDUCED, January cost for spay and neuter procedures. The cost includes: anesthesia, procedure, pain relief, hospitalization, meds to go home, and e-collar.

Before any procedure requiring sedation, Dr. Mastafiak needs to do a physical exam. During this appointment she checks your pet's eyes, ears, mouth, heart rate, lung sounds, and any concerns you may have. She looks for baby teeth that may still be retained, and she discusses the procedure and post-surgery instructions. 
For pets over 8 years old, Dr. Mastafiak needs bloodwork to make sure your pet is OK for anesthesia. The bloodwork includes checking kidney and liver function, and complete blood count.

The night before surgery:
We ask that your pet not eat after 10PM. This is because anesthesia can make your pet nauseous, and vomiting while groggy puts your pet at danger of choking.

The morning of surgery:
Check in for surgery around 8:30-9:00AM. We'll have a consent form for you, take your pet's weight, and get him/her comfortable in a large cage or run.
We finish procedures by early afternoon. Each day we only do 1 to 3 procedures (depending on type/length of procedure) because we are committed to giving your pet the best care and our sole attention when they need it. This means being with them and monitoring them as the sedation is taking effect.  After fully sedated, they are intubated, and then the surgical site is sterilized. Next is the surgery.

During surgery:
During surgery, your pet's blood pressure, heart rate, and respiratory rate are monitored literally every minute.  Depending on the size of your pet, cat or dog, spay or neuter, the actual time under anesthesia ranges from approximately 15 to 75 minutes.  (Feline neuter being the quickest and large dog spay taking the longest.)

After surgery:
Someone is by your pet's side until they are awake enough to be out of danger. This "danger" includes choking on any vomit or getting twisted into positions that make it difficult to breathe. They are kept warm and comfortable. Usually, we also trim their nails at this time.
By evening they are fully awake but maybe a little sleepy. If they are not fully awake by now, then we stay until they are. We don't leave anyone alone if it's unsafe to do so. 

The next morning: 
After a good night sleep, staying still and comfortable, your pet is most likely feeling back to their normal self. This is when it's usually e-collar time! We know no one likes the e-collar, but it's important the surgical site stays clean and closed. Your mantra is "we only have to do this once!"

Care at home:
For the next 10-14 days you'll need to restrict your pet's activity. No running, jumping, fetching, or horseplay. No baths. Monitor the surgical site daily. You'll need to look for any redness, oozing, or lumps. Give us a call ASAP with any concerns. Sutures will need to be removed in 10 - 14 days (except for feline neuters). 

Hope you've enjoyed the insight into spays & neuters! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me. If you'd like more information about the benefits of spaying and neutering, the ASPCA has a good article here. 

NEXT time, I'll post about Pet Insurance. I've come to realize "Pet Insurance" is a very broad topic and there's lots to talk about, so I'll probably have to make a few separate blog entries about it. First, I'd like to get you introduced to pet insurance terminology, types of plans, and how it can benefit you and your pet. 

Also, we have a fresh new bulletin board in the waiting room! Please send me or drop off pictures of your happy pets. We would love to see them!

​Have a good day!